How does a strobe work for an underwater camera when scuba diving?

I want to take some photos with a digital camera while scuba diving. I have heard that strobes are better to use. How do they work? Can you just buy a separate strobe and connect it to any underwater digital camera? Thanks.

Best reply by scubabob:

A stobe is either slaved directly to a cameras flash port ( if it has one) by a synch cord or it’s slaved via the cameras actual flash itself . In the former’s case, the actual on board camera flash is disabled. In the latter’s case, the onboard flash isn’t disabled but an opaque shield is placed over the flash, allowing the flash discharge out sideways, triggering the stobe’s own discharge via a small sensor.
If what you have is a normal point and shoot camera and a decent housing that has a strobe tray mount or capable of accepting some mouting hardware, you can go this route. IkeLite for example, makes a housing for many makes and model cameras, that allow the use of an aftermarket strobe. No wires, fibre optics and no connectors between the strobe and camera inside the housing. It simply triggers off the actual light flash of the onboard camera flash and an included flash shield stops the onboard illumination from heading to your subject but allows the offset strobe’s light to hit the subject instead. Voila…no backscatter in your image. The strobe’s light hits the subject at an angle relative to the camera lens, illuminating the subject but the light reflected off particles in the water outbound to the subject doesn’t head right back into the camera lens before the subject’s light, like would happen using an onboard flash. That’s how a strobe eliminates backscatter in a nutshell and why you see strobes attached to the camera housings by flexible arms. It keeps that strobe’s flash of light away from the camera lens and at an angle to it.
Here’s a few examples of strobe units.

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/1strobe_index.html

this one in particular is probably going to do the trick for you http://www.ikelite.com/af35/autoflash.html but check to make sure that your camera housing is supported for the mounts. I use the dual version of this strobe on this housing for my Canon 720 IS http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/can_a710.html .There’s no mount compatibility issues because the housing and strobe are Ike Lite.

If your camera is what’s called an amphibious camera, like a Bonica or Sea&Sea and if it’s relatively new, it may be set up to accept an optional strobe from from whatever camera manufacturer ( Bonica or Sea&Sea) you own. Older models ( 8 years ago or more) required you to jump through a lot of hoops and do some modifications to set up strobe funtionality for them.
You need to understand that it’s difficult to point you totally in the right direction here without knowing what camera you have, what your budget is and if it’s worth it to you to go the extra expense if you’re only taking a few fun shots or doing wide angle wrecks and macro life.
You don’t need to own an F1 race car to get to work a block away unless it’s imperitive you’re the fastest one on the street is what I’m saying. :)

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How does a strobe work for an underwater camera when scuba diving?

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How does a strobe work for an underwater camera when scuba diving?

I want to take some photos with a digital camera while scuba diving. I have heard that strobes are better to use. How do they work? Can you just buy a separate strobe and connect it to any underwater digital camera? Thanks.

Best reply by scubabob:

A stobe is either slaved directly to a cameras flash port ( if it has one) by a synch cord or it’s slaved via the cameras actual flash itself . In the former’s case, the actual on board camera flash is disabled. In the latter’s case, the onboard flash isn’t disabled but an opaque shield is placed over the flash, allowing the flash discharge out sideways, triggering the stobe’s own discharge via a small sensor.
If what you have is a normal point and shoot camera and a decent housing that has a strobe tray mount or capable of accepting some mouting hardware, you can go this route. IkeLite for example, makes a housing for many makes and model cameras, that allow the use of an aftermarket strobe. No wires, fibre optics and no connectors between the strobe and camera inside the housing. It simply triggers off the actual light flash of the onboard camera flash and an included flash shield stops the onboard illumination from heading to your subject but allows the offset strobe’s light to hit the subject instead. Voila…no backscatter in your image. The strobe’s light hits the subject at an angle relative to the camera lens, illuminating the subject but the light reflected off particles in the water outbound to the subject doesn’t head right back into the camera lens before the subject’s light, like would happen using an onboard flash. That’s how a strobe eliminates backscatter in a nutshell and why you see strobes attached to the camera housings by flexible arms. It keeps that strobe’s flash of light away from the camera lens and at an angle to it.
Here’s a few examples of strobe units.

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/1strobe_index.html

this one in particular is probably going to do the trick for you http://www.ikelite.com/af35/autoflash.html but check to make sure that your camera housing is supported for the mounts. I use the dual version of this strobe on this housing for my Canon 720 IS http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/can_a710.html .There’s no mount compatibility issues because the housing and strobe are Ike Lite.

If your camera is what’s called an amphibious camera, like a Bonica or Sea&Sea and if it’s relatively new, it may be set up to accept an optional strobe from from whatever camera manufacturer ( Bonica or Sea&Sea) you own. Older models ( 8 years ago or more) required you to jump through a lot of hoops and do some modifications to set up strobe funtionality for them.
You need to understand that it’s difficult to point you totally in the right direction here without knowing what camera you have, what your budget is and if it’s worth it to you to go the extra expense if you’re only taking a few fun shots or doing wide angle wrecks and macro life.
You don’t need to own an F1 race car to get to work a block away unless it’s imperitive you’re the fastest one on the street is what I’m saying. :)

Read the original question here
How does a strobe work for an underwater camera when scuba diving?

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Need help choosing an underwater camera housing for scuba diving?

I am going scuba diving in a month and need to take some underwater photos. I am considering buying a hard plastic case for a digital camera which run around $250. Or I am thinking about trying these soft plastic cases that run around $30. Has anyone used either of these before? Did the photos turn out okay? I will be going in shallow water, probably no deeper than 60 feet. Do you think I need an extra flash to take good pictures?
Thanks.

Best reply by scubabob:

You get what you pay for. It’s your camera. Personally I’d spend whatever it takes to keep that camera safe and able to take decent shots.
As for a flash, you’ll probably find that you’ll want to put a piece of tape over the flash if there’s no option for turning it off. Most of the time, a flash will produce back scatter in images ( looks like a snow storm) as the light from the flash hits suspended particles in the water and bounces back. If your camera and housing allow it, the use of what’s called a strobe will be better. It’s a type of flash that’s mounted and pointed off to the side, reducing back scatter.

Read the original question on Yahoo! site
Need help choosing an underwater camera housing for scuba diving?

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Need help choosing an underwater camera housing for scuba diving?

I am going scuba diving in a month and need to take some underwater photos. I am considering buying a hard plastic case for a digital camera which run around $250. Or I am thinking about trying these soft plastic cases that run around $30. Has anyone used either of these before? Did the photos turn out okay? I will be going in shallow water, probably no deeper than 60 feet. Do you think I need an extra flash to take good pictures?
Thanks.

Best reply by scubabob:

You get what you pay for. It’s your camera. Personally I’d spend whatever it takes to keep that camera safe and able to take decent shots.
As for a flash, you’ll probably find that you’ll want to put a piece of tape over the flash if there’s no option for turning it off. Most of the time, a flash will produce back scatter in images ( looks like a snow storm) as the light from the flash hits suspended particles in the water and bounces back. If your camera and housing allow it, the use of what’s called a strobe will be better. It’s a type of flash that’s mounted and pointed off to the side, reducing back scatter.

Read the original question on Yahoo! site
Need help choosing an underwater camera housing for scuba diving?

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I want to get certified for scuba diving but i cant find a certification place.?

I like near tunkhannock and I am trying to find a place to get certification for scuba diving.I checked the web and could not find anywhere. Does anyone know of a place?

Best reply by rjamason1@sbcglobal.net:

This is the closest one that I could find. It looks to be about an hour away from you.

Mountain Recreational SCUBA 570-894-5759 Tobyhanna www.mountain-recreational-scuba.freeservers.com SDI Dive Center

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I want to get certified for scuba diving but i cant find a certification place.?

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